Ahh yes, time for another attempt at making the problem child behave if I group it with the proper stack of other scents. So far we have had rather middling results. But I'm going with a very different approach today. We'll see how it works.
Problem Child: Montale Sensual Instinct Top Notes: Roasted Coffee Beans, mostly, with hints and suggestions of other things Heart Notes: Praline and Rose Base Notes: Amber and Cedarwood
I suppose one of the benefits of my quest to figure out how to best stack the problem child that is Montale Sensual Instinct is that even if I never figure out the best grouping for it, I will be rid of it quickly because it's so frequently used these days.
Today I decided to go with just one fragrance house. In a way, there was the novelty of seeing what three scents from the same house could do. On a practical note, there is also the fact that these three are my less aggressive but certainly also problem children.
The house we are using is MALIN+GOETZ.
Genderless: MALIN+GOETZ Dark Rum Top Notes: Bergamot, plum, and anise Middle Notes: Leather, rum, and vanilla Base Notes: Patchouli, amber, and creamy milk
When I was first introduced to MALIN+GOETZ, it was in the form of a Dark Rum rollerball. And I fell in love. It was truly one of the most heady and sensual fragrances ever to mingle with my body chemistry. I loved it and I wore it every day. It made me feel amazing.
The scent was rich and sexy. The scent was my mythologized and romanticized theories about the Lost Generation writers: intense brooding while trying to come to terms with a broken world through warm liquors, physical proximity, and very late nights.
Everything about this scent worked. It was gender-neutral but leaning masc in a way that made me smirk. This was the leather and rum mixing with the plum, anise, and patchouli. It was indulgence as a means of self-defense. That was evoked by the vanilla, bergamot, and creamy milk. It was a short story that would get a high school teacher in trouble if she assigned it, even though it never said anything explicit at all.
I loved it deeply from the start. It was a very me scent.
Because of this, it didn't last very long. I knew I had to replace it. Instead of just getting another rollerball like a practical person, I looked for what was available to me at subscription houses. When I got the chance to get the Dark Rum body wash, I selected it. The body wash was more subtle than the rollerball but still wonderful.
When I started Scentbird, my first selection was the Dark Rum spray. When it came in, it was rather disappointing. Something about the delivery process stilted everything I had loved about my other two methods of exposure to this scent. It felt muted. I tossed it in my perfume drawer and ignored it.
Femme: MALIN+GOETZ Strawberry Top Notes: sparkling bergamot, mara strawberry, pink pepper Heart Notes: jasmine petals, jasmine lactone captive, woodland greens Base Notes: cedarwood, oakmoss, captive musks, orris root
Side note: Captive in this case means it is an isolated molecule or ingredient that has been developed in-house and is copyright-protected and illegal if duplicated. This is a lot more boring than anything I could come up with. I was imagining scents that were somehow metallic or leather in nature due to bondage. But no.
Okay. What this should smell like: Strawberry should be sexy as hell. That top layer should really open with something fun. I usually have a great time with pink pepper. It is light and airy with a suggestion of red fruits, which should lend itself well to the strawberry. The strawberry should be amplified by the bergamot, which leans tart and almost citrus.
The middle highlight should be the jasmine lactone, usually a rich, creamy blend of fresh jasmine petals, juicy peach, ripe apricot, and coconut milk with a soft dairy warmth. This should suggest a nice strawberries and cream on your skin kind of thing.
And that base is my favorite sort of base with oakmoss, cedar, and musks. Orris root is rather purple in nature, but in a thick, buttery, almost suede way. Again, I should be getting wild strawberries and cream here.
The fact that this is a rollerball should have amplified that.
In reality, though, it did not. This ended up smelling like very little of anything. It is subtle. And honestly, too subtle for me. I wanted something that said, “Heeeeyy, yeah, fresh bowl of strawberries and cream here,” and instead got something demure.
We don't do demure in this house.
Provocative: MALIN+GOETZ Cannabis Top Notes: Bergamot, black pepper, and orange Heart Notes: Cannabis accord, muguet, and magnolia Base Notes: Cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood, amber, and musk
The problem with this one actually isn't its fault. I received it in the midst of being extremely ill in a way that all external stimuli made me feel a great deal of revulsion. I smelled this, recoiled, and instantly got a migraine. This was not a great start to our relationship. I was afraid to touch it after that.
But I'm better now, so I can handle the scent with more ease.
The top here is citrus in a way that only openly admits itself once, the orange. But both bergamot and black pepper have citrus leanings. They are not only zesty but rather bright, though black pepper often has a more smoky dry down.
Cannabis accord is always a dice roll because it does not contain actual cannabis at all. It is a collection of ingredients meant to simulate cannabis, but of course that means different things to different people. Sometimes this scent comes off as skunky. Sometimes it is very green and herbal. Sometimes it is more woody or more spicy. It always depends on your body chemistry and the way the house blended it.
Muguet is also a created scent. It is dewy and green, like water on leaves in the woods. It is fresh and can suggest citrus but only on certain people. Magnolia is a soft white floral with a citrus back kick. Between the top and the majority of the heart, they were really stacking citrus around the wild card of the cannabis accord.
The base, again, is fairly good for me. Cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood, amber, and musk. The patchouli and sandalwood can be risky but usually work out well on my skin.
What I hoped for here... honestly, I don't know. As you can tell, all of these were a gamble for me. All three of the M+G scents should have worked better in theory than they did in reality. My expectations for this were pretty low, but given that I could do Problem Child plus everything else from one house, I wanted to give it a shot.
Results: 4/5
You know what? This really worked. It only works because I can handle the scent of anise better than I can the taste of it. It also works because I am always deeply pleased when my scent edges hard toward masculine, and this certainly does.
I kind of smell like the chemicals in the air of a Hemingway relationship. Intense, tumultuous, deeply full of the potential for trouble.
The scent pleases me deeply. It is actually the happiest I have been with anything I've done with the problem child that is Montale Sensual Instinct. I will certainly repeat this stack, especially if I'm going to have an evening out.
Of note: My roommate walked into the room and said it smelled weird, like an herbal cleaner, not in an unpleasant way. Then the anise hits.
That is not how it smells to me, but it is information worth keeping in mind.