The end of August is always a time ripe with possibilities. There’s the inevitable reflection on what one actually did with their summer (in my case, made art and dealt with medical issues), but also the rich, bubbling excitement that autumn will soon arrive. It’s a season of harsh days and slightly more merciful nights, when sleep comes easier and dreams feel deeper.
Sometimes when I build my scent stack, I plan it out.
This usually happens when I know I’ll be out in public. One should,
of course, be more responsible about scent in shared spaces, given
how sensitive some people can be.
Other days, I let my hands
choose for me, working off impulse and whatever thematic feeling I
want my day to carry. Today was one of those days.
As always,
I build my scent stack around four primary concepts.
Mysterious:
Korres Kyma
Top Notes: Lime, mandarin, orange
Heart Notes:
Marine, watery, pepper
Base Notes: Cedar, vetiver, nutmeg
Kyma
is my foundation. It is the scent I always pull first. It’s the
central idea everything else builds around. On me, Kyma is
beautifully balanced, each aspect singing exactly as it should:
citrus that yields to watery notes, settling into something rich,
woody, and earthy.
Genderless: Sucreabeille Blood Drunk
Top
Notes: Pomegranate, apple, black cherry
Heart Notes: Dark rum,
dragon’s blood
Base Notes: Cherry tobacco, a hint of blood
accord
The top notes are all ripe, red things. It's open,
inviting, juicy. Dark rum and dragon’s blood add smoky elements,
scents I find attractive on men, and as always, if I find it
arresting on others, I find it arresting on myself.
The
tobacco is the star, lending a depth that carries the whole stack
into something cohesive.
Blood accord is an engineered
compound meant to simulate the scent of blood. It’s a complicated
addition, one many people would find revolting. To me, it pushes the
copper forward as a metallic thread that gives the entire stack the
balance it needs.
Femme: Evereden Darling
Top Notes:
Strawberry, peach, pineapple
Heart Notes: Rose, jasmine, muguet
(lily of the valley)
Base Notes: Vanilla, musk
My femme
layer is always where I play with contrast. I tend toward
gender-neutral, unisex, almost masc-coded elements because they
please me, so this layer often becomes the space where I reach for my
most femme-coded scents. With Darling, the strawberry is the hero and
becomes an instant mood-booster that layers beautifully with the
vanilla. The peach and pineapple are subtle but present, melding well
with the musk.
The heart notes are unabashedly floral. One of
them is rose, which can be risky because it sometimes reads Old Lady.
But Darling is youthful enough that it never tips into that
territory. It doesn’t make me suddenly want to go to a yard sale or
anything.
Provocative: onekind Bone Flower
Top Notes:
Orange blossom, pink peppercorn
Heart Notes: Tuberose, jasmine,
Turkish rose
Base Notes: Sandalwood, patchouli
When I first
tested Bone Flower, it reminded me of… something. I still don’t
know what. There’s a memory buried in it that I haven’t unlocked,
which is one of the reasons it stays firmly in the provocative
category.
All three layers do different things. Orange blossom
has heady, honeyed aspects, but mostly reads clean and almost soapy.
Soapy, as always, is a risky part of the mix.Soapy either feels
refreshing or overpowering. In this case, though, it's rather mild.
It’s a white floral, generally friendly and approachable. Pink
peppercorn is a gentle, fizzy spice that leans rose, giving the top
notes a clean, energetic feel.
The heart is thick and creamy,
with tuberose and Turkish rose bringing milky elements. Jasmine is
musky, sensual, and powdery. And yes, powdery can read Old Lady,
here it simply reads clean.
The base is the real risk.
Sandalwood and I have a complicated relationship. I adore it except
when I don’t, and when I don’t, I can’t even be in the same
room with it. Patchouli is often abused and overused, ranging
anywhere from “earth mother goddess” to “regretful music
festival goer who has not bathed in six days,” depending on how
soil-forward it’s behaving.
Bone Flower manages to harness
both without causing me problems. It’s risky, but done well enough
that I’m pleased with it.
The end result of the stack makes
me feel full of mystery and potential. It makes me excited for what
fall could bring. Kyma is my warm foundation. It is the heat of late
August sun that seems unwilling to yield to cooler days but knows it
must. Bone Flower and Blood Drunk mingle into something dark red,
reminding me that soon the trees will be a multitude of colors and my
days will be filled with the sound of them gently crackling in the
wind. Darling adds a candied suggestion, a whisper that Halloween is
on the way.
It’s a good stack.